How To Clean Garden Tools With Boiling Linseed Oil

Boiled linseed oil provides a lustrous finish to any wood project. It is a full-proof system that whatsoever level of finisher can do without fear of failure! While in that location's a slight learning bend residuum assured its pretty difficult to mess this process up.

Pure linseed oil is extremely thick and very dull to dry. Boiled linseed oil (BLO) has chemical driers and thinners added to raise the application and drying processes. BLO provides a rich oil end that adds character, depth and dazzler to almost any wood surface. BLO has a definite place in a woodworker's armory.

BLO has been effectually for a long time and is a favorite of many woodworkers and wood finishers. It is a production of flax-seed. A plant renowned for its health benefits and floral beauty. Raw linseed oil is a eco-friendly, green product. Boiled linseed oil is not.

Unfortunately, raw linseed oil is not workable in its natural land due mostly to its heavy viscosity and extended drying times. Once applied it tin can remain "gluey" for years.

Linseed products suitable for wood finishing on the market place today are sold as "Boiled Linseed Oil" or "Purified Linseed Oil". Originally linseed oil was boiled in a vacuum to remove molecules of oxygen and breakdown its nutrient components, principally fatty acids. This procedure accomplished a few things: it enhanced drying fourth dimension; reduced stickiness; and information technology helped reduce the tendency of the oil to turn rancid.

Today the term boiled linseed oil is in many cases is a slight misnomer and in other cases a total misnomer. Virtually BLO products sold today every bit boiled linseed oil are no longer boiled but are instead replaced with chemicals that increment drying time, thin the oil to a workable land and impair rancidity. Because of this it is no longer a green product nor is information technology classified equally a food-safe product.

At that place is a new system (actually a very old procedure re-introduced) of refining raw linseed oil. The product is near frequently label "Purified Linseed Oil". Producers of PLO take reverted back to merely boiling the oil in modern pressurized cooking pots and market it without chemical additives. Purified linseed oil is green and food-safe.

natural-oil-finish-on-a-wooden-bedside-table

There are a number of advantages BLO and PLO over pure Tung oil. While all iii are known for adding graphic symbol and depth to wood there are some strong advantages to Linseed Oil. BLO is faster drying, easier to apply, requires fewer coats and costs less. Unfortunately I cannot comment on PLO as I have never personally used it. (I am open to product data and production donations for experimentation and review).

The downside to BLO is the tendency to yellow with age, the possibility it can plough rancid, the fact that information technology will mildew if used in damp environments (typically outdoor use) and is not food-safe. Linseed oil offers "water protection". It is a natural h2o repellent. There is an ongoing debate it may or may not be waterproof.

That said for the correct application, in the right surround, the advantages of linseed oil far outweigh whatever disadvantages.

Applying Boiled Linseed Oil – What You'll Need to Get Started

For New Wood – ii Grades of Sand Paper (120 – 180 – 220 – 320 – 400)
Old Forest or Damaged Surfaces – Sandpaper (80-120-180 – 220 – 320 – 400) and a mechanical
sander
Tack Cloth
Between Coats – 400 grit newspaper or #0000 steel wool or grey scotch brite pad
Applicator (choose ane)– Cotton Rag or Stiff Natural Bristle Brush
Boiled Linseed Oil
Suitable mixing container with a lid for air tight storage betwixt coats
Make clean rag for wiping excess

Applying Boiled Linseed Oil – Properly

Proper BLO Awarding and Surface Training

When oiling woods the surface should exist kickoff end sanded to anywhere from 320 to 400 grit sandpaper. Surface coatings (polyurethane, lacquer, shellac) hide 180 grit sandpaper scratches whereas oil will accentuate them. Then when oiling forest a finer finish sanding is highly recommended.

Raising Forest Grain – A necessary Step for a Fine Finish

Think of prepping forest for finishing like getting a haircut. The commencement wash after your hairdresser visit results in a whole bunch of split ends that suddenly pop. Well, wood fibers are a lot like hair strands. Subsequently all the sawing, gluing, planning and sanding many of the wood fibers are damaged and torn. Calculation moisture (like shampooing your hair) pops those broken strands and they need to be removed for a really nice finish.

For that amend finish the grain should be intentionally raised earlier staining or finishing. I always wet my wood after my 180 grit sanding (for a complete sanding explanation see my YouTube videosSanding Efficiently <for beginners>, andChoosing the Correct Grade Sandpaper for Your Woodworking Projection<for all levels>). Wetting the forest raises its grain (kinda like split up-ends in hair) which can be sanded down with the last or adjacent sanding of 180 or 220 grit papers.

Raising the Grain entails wetting the wood'due south surface, letting it dry out and so re-sanding to knock down raised forest fibers. You lot tin can use a spray bottle or a wet rag to moisten (not soak) the surface. Let information technology dry out and then come back and sand or re-sand with a 220 dust sandpaper (if you are staining or applying a surface coating use 180 grit to level the grain).

TIP: First time with BLO? It's always best to go the feel of whatever procedure by practicing in an unnoticeable area on your project like the bottom of a table, the back of a dresser, the within of a cabinet, etc. I've done thousands of projects over the concluding 30 plus years and "ALWAYS" follow this rule on every 1 of them.

BLO can be applied with a soft clean rag, a piece of #0000 steel wool or a grey scotch brite pad. It can exist applied to by pouring directly from the tin to an applicator but you will have better control and less waste material by pouring a pocket-size amount in a bowl and dipping the applicator.

Start with the hardest to reach spots get-go to avert contact subsequently in the awarding. Apply in circular motions across the grain of the wood. The object of the first coat is to saturate the wood equally deeply as possible.

Employ a generous but controllable amount of boiled linseed oil to your applicator peculiarly for the initial few coats. The surface should await very, very wet but not puddled. Older and reclaimed woods will suck it upwards like a camel drinking water in the dessert. All areas should wait moisture simply if any areas accept standing puddles spread them out or wipe them off.

On the flip side if your wood sucks in your application, reapply again and again keeping the surface wet (but non puddled) with oil for the next xxx minutes. Later on 30 minutes your wood should be saturated with oil and any excess wiped off.

Watch for the side by side couple hours and if any excess oil has bubbled to the surface wipe information technology off. At this bespeak allow to dry out overnight before applying the side by side coat.

Re-application Timing – Subsequent Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil

Wait fourth dimension is based on how quickly the surface dries. This is a cistron based on temperature, humidity and thickness of the coat. In well-nigh cases overnight dry out is sufficient. However if the next day the surface is however tacky allow more time. The surface should feel dry and somewhat slippery to impact earlier re-coating.

Boiled Linseed Oil Re-coating – Sanding Betwixt Coats

When the surface is no longer tacky to touch you are fix to do a very light sanding following the management of the grain (operative word is light as we don't want to cut through the very thin layer we only put downward previously). Use either a 400-600 grit sandpaper, a #0000 grade steel wool, or a grey scotch brite pad (grey pads are rated 400-600 grit).

Follow this method for the next glaze. Typically you would lay down iii coats.

Applying Boiled Linseed Oil – The Last Coat

The only difference in this coat is you don't sand after the final coat . I let it to cure and then depending on the expect I am looking for I might apply a coat of paste wax. Paste wax on wood is just like paste wax on your car. It offers minimal protection but adds depth and smoothness to your wood project.

TIP: Avoid waxes with silicone additives. Silicone (similar WD-40) adds a glace texture that feels nice to the touch just fouls refinishing coatings and becomes an accented bear to remove should you e'er decide to touch-up or refinish your project.

Boiled Linseed Oil – Repair

You won't believe how easy this is. Clean the damaged area, apply BLO undiluted to a soft cotton fiber fabric and wipe information technology on. If it soaks information technology up quickly use a picayune more and repeat until the wetness lasts for fifteen-xx minutes. After 20 minutes, with a little elbow grease, rub the BLO into the damaged expanse for a few minutes. Wipe whatever excess and y'all're done.

Boiled Linseed Oil – Rag Disposal

Oily rags are volatile and should be hung to air dry out. Rags have been known to spontaneously combust when balled upwardly in a refuge container.

Boiled Linseed Oil – Dry out vs Hardening

Boiled linseed oil dries in a few days and can exist put in moderate service. Boiled linseed oil does not fully cure or harden (dry all the style through) for 30-45 days. It'southward okay to put your projection in service one time dry but you should refrain from heavy utilize until hardened.

My Refinishing Article of furniture YouTube Library:

Chemical Strippers vs Heat Gun – Refinishing Furniture
Sanding Efficiently – The Second Step In Refinishing Furniture
Choosing the Correct Class Sandpaper for Your Woodworking Projection – Refinishing Furniture
Blemish-Gratuitous Wood Stain Application Technique – Refinishing Furniture
Bubble-Complimentary Polyurethane Application Technique
When and How to Wipe On Polyurethane – Refinishing Furniture
Ultimate Guide to Bubble Complimentary Varnish – Doors, Furniture, Cabinets, Tables
Fixing Polyurethane Bubbles, Puddles, Runs and Brush Marks
Proper Brush Cleaning – Pigment, Polyurethane, Varnish, Shellac

Refinishing Furniture PDF Summary Sheets Available for Download and Press:

Polyurethane – Rules, Tips and Paraphernalia PDF
Stripper – Rules, Tips and Paraphernalia PDF
Sanding – Rules, Tips and Paraphernalia PDF
Choosing the Right Grade Sandpaper (Nautical chart) PDF
Staining – Rules, Tips and Paraphernalia PDF
Wipe On Polyurethane – Rules, Tips and Paraphernalia PDF

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